The berries...
... assembling the pies...
... the finished product.
Yum!
Me, to Issoufou, in typical Nigerien fashion of shamelessly asking for things: "I like your shirt. Give it to me."
Issoufou: "okay, I will bring it to your house tomorrow."
Me: "I was just kidding!"
Issoufou: "I will still give it to you." The next day he brings it, sprayed down with a heavy layer of cologne rather than freshly washed.
Crystal's Guide to Pooping in the Bush
- Find a spot not in eyeview of people and cars (duh!)
- Plant feet so that they are uphill from your ass (this prevents bodily fluids from getting near your shoes.)
- Remove a shoe and use it to make a hole or just scrape away sand.
- Poop. Wash/wipe yourself, being sure to move back a little so you don't accidentally touch it.
- Use a stick or your foot to kick sand on top. If you didn't poo in a hole, cover it just enough to keep flies away. You don't want to disguise it too well because someone could step in it before it dries. If you poo'd in a hole, fill the hole back in with dirt.
- Wash your hand as well as possible in the circumstances.
- Discreetly pull up your drawers/skirt. Get the hell out of there before someone sees you and greets you while your pants are down. [this happened to me a few times. awkward!]

November 6, 2009. Geerwol.
Took Sonitrav bus to Abalak. Leave in evening to Bagam [the location of Geerwol, out in the bush] and car kept falling apart. We get there late at night.
Hear singing in Bagam which is Geerwol and it goes on all night. Dancers wear bent metal plate chained to one foot and stomp to make it rattle. I try to go to sleep but the tea I drank is strong and I get up and watch the dancing instead.
November 7.
Everyone is up at or before sunrise. I try sleeping in but once I wake up I can't go back to sleep. A scared camel creates a scene by running all around the camp and we watch a horse and camel (plus a big herd of people) chase it.
Early morning dancing and singing.
The camp. Imported western tents are set up as people in traditional robes lounge on mats, pouring tea, eating food, and hanging out with friends.
Chasing the runaway camel.
I love the giant herd of people running after it! You could hear the shouting from far away.
Singing and dancing in the heat of the day.
Now losing my mind because camera shutter piece is missing. [I let Darey's little brother, Bugo, borrow it to take some photos. He dropped it in the sand while the shutter was open, and the shutter got stuck.]
[About an hour later] Ok, it's OK now. [Managed to get the sand out of the shutter mechanism and it began working again, to my tremendous relief.]
Camels continue to entertain me. Just now another camel got frisky and started running around, but people managed to subdue it pretty quickly. And then I saw a guy who opened his headwrap, tied the end to the camel's nose ring, and used it to lead him.
[I drew a picture so I could remember it correctly.]
Soon I will watch Darey help get Bugo ready to dance!
[I didn't actually see that because I was napping, but here's a photo Bugo took of his friends getting ready.]
Darey and I. He's cleaning his teeth with a stick in this photo.
November 8.
Went to bed at 8 so I could get up to see Geerwol in the middle of the night. I woke up at 11 - it hadn't started yet. 2am - I woke up and struggled to stay awake. We left at 4, I think. [This was in reference to the Geerwol, the final dance where the finalists are chosen. The contest goes on for a week before this. The challenge is for the men to dance and sing all night and all morning, without drinking or eating anything.]
I saw women's hair in their profiles lit by the rising sun. The dancers became slowly visible. The old people hooted "woo hoo" as they studied the beautiful men.
The women.
Old ladies admiring the young men.
Soon the voters arrived. It was two beautiful, thin young women who held one hand to the side of their face as if to avoid being distracted by anything in their peripheral vision. The old men who constantly fuss over the contestants selected 8-10 finalists, and attached a tuft of white cow fur to their head. The women somehow indicated the winner and his tuft of hair was removed. The the crowd followed him out and away; to his house, I guess.
Attaching cow fur to a finalist.
The beautiful judges, who picked the winner.
We are having our morning tea and will leave for Teyiss later. Hopefully I will finally see Darey's actual house and cattle.
[and later, apparently a few thoughts I wanted to remember...]
Conserving water by not bathing. Now I understand why in the old days people only bathed once a week.
Camels grazing a few steps from the tent.
Baby horse!
In the Sahel it's hot, sunny, windy and arid. Being at the real Geerwol, which is the most traditional, one can see the warrior resemblance with the feather headdress, red face paint, makeshift "axe," and stomp dance which rattles the foot plate. [the word "Geerwol" means "war" in the Wodaabe language, Fulfulde.]